Day two- San Sebastian to Getaria 27km (counting getting lost…again)
I’m going to skip over the part were I tell you that my washing didn’t dry from the day before and I had to wear wet knickers. Also I will omit the part were we got lost going out of San Sebastian as we walked and rewalked the stretch of La Concha beach Boulevard weaving in and out of the all night party goers calling out Buen Camino. No I shall start now..
It was all uphill again (ugh) as we walked out of a waking San Sebastian Sunday morning. We hugged a coastal road for a bit passing the odd (tempting) bus stop until we began the undulating trek through the farmlands rimming the blue waters of the Bay of Biscay. Our first morning passing pilgrims were Spanish locals out for a meander along the coast. We followed these three musketeers as they pilfered anything that hung over the path. I tried my first (very fresh) fig as we caught up to them snacking on this forbidden fruit. It was delectable. Alas most of our fellow non-backpack carrying walkers easily passed us as they talked non stop whilst going uphill.
Then we finally met two dinky-di pilgrims. The first was a German man from Munich, Fulcko (?), that started in Hendye (on the French border with Irun), on his third Camino and carrying a 13kg pack. We thanked him for being the only other person carrying a bigger pack than Michaels (10kg) as he zoomed past us. Then there was the retired Odilè who walked out of her door in Avignon six weeks ago and was setting a cracking pace as well. The rest of the hordes of day trekking locals who constantly passed us, were admired for their stamina and endless chattering.
Our first stop was just before lunch on a little town nestled on the river called Orio. Cute but absolutely crazy in the preceding two hours to get there. Walking on uneven stones/boulders is not an easy task. Then add a descent of 20%, well let’s just say that our toenails needed extracting from our shoes in Orio.
Then another walk up and down to Zarautz, weaved us around the river and then through a vineyard. The descent into this popular summer town was breathtaking. Zarautz is rimmed with the regions longest beach-2.8km of course yellow sand dotted with brown Spanish bodies is a marvelous site. Yet we didn’t stop as were on a mission.
Zarautz was suppose to be the end destination on our Camino guide for the day but even though we were akin to walking zombies, we thought we might just have the last 6.8km stretch of flat coastal walking in the bag. So we continued on to Getaria and into the welcoming arms of another Pensiòn.
I end with a small history lesson. In 1519, Magellan and a fleet of five Spanish ships set off to circumnavigate the globe. Even though the kudos of discovery was given to this famous explorer, he actually died in the Philippines, and the little known Juan Sebastian Elcano , from this little sleepy town of Getaria, returned to Spain three years after leaving, with just one ship and eighteen crew. A true hero in my books. Not so back then as the cause of his death at the tender age of 50 was malnutrition. So I stood at the foot of this deserving statue and praised the adventurer to whom all credit should be applauded.
Our adventure will again begin tomorrow and you guessed it, it starts with an uphill climb…best to keep that info from Michael.