Day three- Getaria to Deba (17.5km) then a train trip to Bilbao.
We seem to be stuck in a time warp.
After an exhausting day of walking, it is impossible for us to stay awake long enough for dinner, especially as the Spanish don’t eat before 8pm and don’t rise before 8-9am. For the last two days we have missed breakfast and dinner. Last night we walked around Getaria, even partaking in a glass of the local wine called Txakoli. We were a little early, so decided to go back to the Pensiòn and have a little nap…..which lasted for eight hours. We were both up and hungry at 4am but neary a mouse was stirring. The Pensiòn’s breakfast started at 9am but when we stood at check in, almost catatonic with this information, the innkeeper told us of a nearby cafe that would be open at 7am. Only three hours to wait, but in the end it was worth it.
Hunger satiated, we set forth up the first hill towards the setting full moon at 7.45am. We had plenty of time to plan today’s walk, so we set off in high spirits. The scenery was stunning. Lots of rolling hills with no one in sight but our shadows, and most importantly, we didn’t get lost. The first town of Zumaia came up quickly with plenty of views to make us stop and count our blessings. We stopped here for another coffee- two in the one day was almost gluttonous compared to none in the last two days. We were on a roll, but so were the hills.
We had to make a decision at the top of one hill whether to take the yellow arrowed “proper” Camino route of 10km or the more strenuous but very scenic coastal route of 7.6km. After day one’s decision of the scenic alpine route almost turned into a disaster where I was seriously contemplating using my walking sticks as a cross on Michael’s grave, we choose the easier but longer option (as per the guide book). If this route was easier, then the coastal route would have definitely killed us. Lots of ups and one massively steep down into Deba, that would rival the steepest street in the world. We arrived weak in the ankles but grateful to take the free elevator down from upper Deba to the town.
After five hours of walking and 17.5 km covered, we were pooped. I had read about the must-see Church of Santa Marìa that we happened to stumble upon when making our way to the Turismo Office. Well worth a visit (you were right this time guide book). Then it was a quick drink of Aquarius (like a Solo drink) and potato frittata before catching the train to Bilbao.
Aghast you say.
Train travel isn’t part of the Camino spirit but then again, this isn’t the same as last years effort. We seem to be alone on our pilgrimage as we continue to only glimpse a passing pilgrim each day. Today we saw a couple, well into the distance, but couldn’t catch up with them before Deba, and didn’t see anyone else with a shell on their backpack walking though the town. We had read that the next three stages (84km) was leaving the coast and heading inland. We love walking beside the sea. So we decided to jump ahead to when that would happen again; the day after Bilbao. However we felt that we still should still pay a visit to Bilbao with it’s Guggenheim Museum and old world town.
So that is where we are at the moment. Laying on one of the six double bunks in the room at the Bilbao Central Hostel. I think there are five people staying in this 40 bed hostel. The guy said that we will be the only people in the room for the night and (bonus) there is a washer and dryer here. Tomorrow we won’t have to walk with our knickers drying on the back like the last two days.