Day 12- Sobrado to Arzua- 22km
Arriving in Arzúa, we have joined the Camino Frances for the last two days into Santiago. I was here with my “Frances family” in 2014 staying in the Albergue Don Quixote at the start of town. I remember it being such a hot day and we settled on one of the first Albergues on the way in to town. Today the approach was from the North, landing us half way along the very long main road in town. So I missed passing The Don and instead Michael and I opted for the two star luxury of the Pensión Begoña near the main Plaza.
The weather in the past twenty-four hours would put Melbourne’s reputation to shame. As we were packing last night, we looked out the window to witness thick snowflakes falling onto the road. The temperature plumetted from eight degrees to freezing in a matter of hours. Overnight the snow turned into drizzling rain. By dawn it was a patchy blue sky that greeted us on our walk to the cafe for breakfast.
Today we walked through so many rain showers followed by brilliant sunshine, that I lost count of the amount of times Michael changed in and out of his wet weather gear. Easily six or seven times I would walk past him in a state of undress. We saw glimpses of snow patches on fields not too far from us. Otherwise the wet road kept our feet in a permanent state of cold dampness through to sloggy slushiness but still we soldiered on.
We knew we were at the back of the pack when leaving Sobrado, having guessed that there were around twenty- five pilgrims in the vicinity. However I think they all must have walked along the more direct main road to expedite as little time as possible in the annoying conditions. We faithfully stuck by the Camino shells and saw no one until the last hill into Arzúa. Three Spanish boys, one with a pronounced limp, were staggering (and singing) their way up the road. They said that they had walked one hundred kilometres in the last four days and were planning to push on for another fifteen kilometres. We later saw them hooking up with a couple of the Catholic college girls presumably being directed down to their Albergue. Fun times ahead for them.