Day 16- Negreira to Olveiroa- 32.5km
By 10am I was really doubting my parenting skills. Walking in front of me, I watched the sodden shoulders of my first born slumped forward as the rain fell heavily, soaking and freezing her to the core. “You know I’m only here because you are here. This is not my idea of a holiday”, she said. She was miserable. I was unhappy for her. Michael was hating the mud (as usual). Then at 1pm, we found the sun. Thankyou St James.
We left last nights Albergue El Carmen at 8.30am after a night of many noises. The beds creaked on any movement and there were twelve smelly bodies rolling around trying to get comfortable. It wasn’t until well up onto the first hill out of town that we realized that Michael hadn’t paid for his breakfast. So now we’re fugitives.
The four hours of driving rain was interspersed with two cafe breaks at the 8km and 12km marks. Each time we found the cafe crowded with equally drenched pilgrims trying to warm up by the heaters as they peeled layers of wet clothing off. We reluctantly continued on. By 1pm the rain stopped with glimpses of blue sky up ahead. By 2pm we stopped for our bocadillos at Santa Mariña in full sunshine. What a joy to start drying all our wet layers.
The last 12.5km was glorious as Chloe and I talked our way through a variety of topics as the Spanish countryside passed slowly by. We stayed mainly on minor roads, so by the time we arrived in the very small town of Olveiroa, our shoes and clothes were nearly dry. We have opted to stay in the Casa Loncho which is just above the private Albergue. Nearly all the other pilgrims are around the corner in the Albergue de Perigrinos. We’ll meet up with them again tomorrow on the last day to the end of the world, Finisterre.